Tips & Tricks...
home Running Gear
  • Brakes
    • Rob Bell offers up the options here, from OE to AP.
    • Rob tells us why big is not always best in this article.
    • Andy 'Scarlet Fever' Phillips offers his thoughts on the braking effect here.
    • And also from Rob, an article about brake fade.
    • Erik covers the pad and disc options on his site here.
    • to cut down on brake servo movement, Erik fitted this bracket.
    • Rob Bell also covers brake servo movement on his web site here.
    • Erik shows how to fit Mike Satur's 280mm conversion kit here.
    • TIP !! when checking your rear brake pads for wear, check the inside pad, this wears at a greater rate than the outer pad. The OE inner pad also has a metal strip attached to it that rubs on the brake disc emitting a squeal when the pads are low.
    • Jerry Herbert from the SWMGF'rs has another tip regarding rear brake caliper seizure (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the thread).
  • Brake discs
    • CJJ shows us how he removed the disc retaining screws that nearly always snap over on the forum.
  • Handbrake
    • A lot of people ask how to adjust the handbrake, refer to the handbrake section on this page.
  • Wheels and tyres
  • Locking wheel nuts
    • There has been a spate of the McGard type locking wheel nuts failing. A shorter lock nut, possibly having a 24212 part number, has been fitted for whatever reason, this 'bottoms out' on the stud, over a few weeks it effectively pushes the end of the lock nut off, have a look at this post on the forum which shows a failed lock nut in the lower picture. I was told by the supplier of a set that failed on my TF that the McGard catalogue gave the incorrect number for the F/TF.

        For the record, the correct information for the McGard locking wheel nuts is as follows;
      • McGard part number - 82518
      • MGR part number - XPT000175ACC
      • McGard part number - 24157 can also be fitted, but these lack the anti tamper sleeve that the 82518 nuts have. There is no MGR part number for these.

        The online shop sells these for £19.99 (May 2007), but ignore the picture of them, its the wrong one.
        This has been discussed in depth in this thread on the forum.
  • Wheel bearings
    • Dieter has this page showing how to replace the rear wheel bearing.
  • Suspension
    • Andy Phillips covers the hydragas design used on the F here on
    • Dieter has this page on how to build your own hydragas pump - TAKE CARE !!!
    • Erik lists some suspension options on his English Fantasy web site.
    • the poly bush upgrade for the F is covered on Erik's site here.
    • Tony Thompson covers fitting of poly bushes on his site here.
    • a common issue that gets over looked is the grease nipple on each of the front upper suspension arms. Mark Leonard took a photo identifying its location on the forum, its at the end of the rusty bent screwdriver !!.
    • Dieter has a page on a shock absorber upgrade for the MGF here.
    • Dieter even covers the various hydragas pumps available here.
    • Looking for a garage that can pump up your hydragas suspension ?, then try The Hydragas Register.
    • Jerry Herbert, 'MG TF nut', a member on the SWMGF boards, reminds us to grease our nipples!!!, and a follow up thread showing a modification to the nipple for better access with the grease gun (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the treads).
    • Debs has put this thread together on the MGF Register forum, listing the standard suspension settings and Sport Pack 1 (SP1) suspension settings for a TF. The same data is tabulated below.

  • Suspension settings - TF
    Suspension element Standard suspension Sports suspension
    Front Wheel Alignment - Toe Out per side 0 degrees +/- 6 minutes
    0 degrees +/- 0.1 degrees
    0 mm +/- 0.665 mm (15" rims)
    0 mm +/- 0.709 mm (16" rims)
    0 degrees +/- 6 mins
    0 degrees +/- 0.1 degs

    Front Wheel Camber - Negative 0 degrees 30 mins +/- 30 mins
    0.5 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees
    3.315 mm +/- 0.315 mm
    0 degrees +/- 05 mins
    0 degrees +/- 0.08 degs

    Front Wheel Castor - Positive 4 degrees 50 mins +/- 1 degree
    4.83 degrees +/- 1 degree
    29.98 mm +/- 6.71 mm
    5 degrees 28 mins +/- 1 deg
    5.47 degrees +/- 1 degree

    King Pin Inclination 11 degrees 40 minutes
    11.71 degrees
    11 degs 40 minutes
    11.67 degs +/-1 deg

    Rear Wheel Alignment - Toe In per side 0 degrees 15 min =/- 6 mins
    0.25 degrees +/- 0.1 degree
    1.662 mm +/- 0.67 mm (15" rims)
    1.772 mm +/- 0.71 mm (16" rims)
    0 degrees 30 mins =/- 6 mins
    0.5 degrees +/- 0.1 deg

    Rear Wheel Camber - Negative 1 degree +/- 30 mins
    1 degree +/- 0.5 degree
    6.71 mm +/- 0.315 mm
    1 degree 33 mins +/- 30 mins
    1.55 degrees + / - 0.5 degree

  • Ride height - MGF
    • Paul at DotComoff has this article on how to check the ride height on an MGF
    • Andy Phillips discusses ride height and hydragas here on
    • Greg Hiltons MGF FAQ has a section on ride height here.
    • Broon shows his method for pumping up the hydragas system on an F.
  • Gear selection mechanism
    • Dieter has a repair for a broken gear selector ball joint here.
    • Tony Thompson has a DIY fix for a split rear gear selector gaiter here.
    • Fitting the Mike Satur Slick Shift kit can be found on Tony Thompson's site here, and on Erik's site here.
  • Stepspeed / Steptronic / CVT gearbox
    • Here is a PDF file giving a full description of the CVT gear box works. This PDF file charts how the gearbox works in driving situations.
      Thanks to TipperMG who posted this thread on the forum


Page last modified on:08, December, 2013
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