Tips & Tricks...
home Electrics
  • Using a multimeter
    • CJJ posted this great thread on the forum, explaining the basics of using a multimeter, he also explains ways of checking the battery condition.
  • Wiring diagrams
    • Dieter as a list of links to wiring diagrams on his web site here.
  • Interior lighting
    • Iain Ross changed to LED's here
  • Broken wiring loom

    This is a common fault, a couple of wires in the loom by the near side boot hinge have broken, usual signs are lights not working, double locking will not work. Sites with fixes :-
    • petemartin on the forum has produced this how to to fix the problem
    • Broon's answer to the problem is here.
    • This article by Roger Parker on the MGOC website also covers this subject well.
    • TIP !! I do not tie wrap the loom back to the bottom clip on the boot hinge as I believe this is a cause of the problem. It puts excessive bending on the loom each time the boot lid is opened/closed. Removal of the clip allows greater freedom to the loom.
  • Horn failure
    • Tony Thompson gives us the low down on how to check for this fault here.
  • Brake lights always on
    • Tony Thompson's site shows us how to cure this very popular fault here.
    • Dieter also covers the problem on his site here.
    • Andy 'Scarlet Fever' Phillips gives his fix for this problem here and here on
    • .....and Andy explains how the problem can be caused here.
    • Another view from Gregg Hiltons original MGF FAQ site.
    • Neil.R on the forum posted this step by step guide to adjusting the brake light switch on the TF.
  • Wiring loom behind the radio
    • There are a lot of sharp edges at the back of the radio, and many people have posted on forums complaining that fuses keep blowing after they have had the radio out. Tony Thompson gives some sound advice to avoid the blowing your fuse here.
    • Have a look at this photograph thumbnail mainit clearly shows the sharp metal edge that the loom rubs against.
  • Heater fan

    If your Heater fan does not work properly, it might be the resistor pack. This is located around the heater box area under the passenger side dashboard. The glove box needs to be removed to access it. The resistor pack can be either replaced or repaired.

  • Headlights
    • on the TF
      • the TF's headlight unit houses 3 bulbs as follows;
        • the sidelight uses a 501 bulb.
        • the dipped beam uses a H7 bulb.
        • the main beam uses a HB3A bulb - the A on the end is very important.
      • PERRY-MGTF on the forum found a possible fix for those misting up headlights.

      If your ordering from Auto Bulbs Direct then the HB3A bulb reference is 9005XS 12V 65W

    • on the F
  • Sidelights
    • hardmonkeys on the forum had non working rear side lights, this was his final solution -
      "turned out the problem was the connector under the centre console....powering the instrumental lights, which somehow Confused Daft powers the rear lights and fogs..oh and the number plate lights, the connector had come off his clip, and straining the wires...all I did was relieve the strain, and pop him back on his clip...simple"
  • Fog lights
    • Morten, who goes by the name MGFNorway on the forum, posted this thread describing how he altered the fog light wiring loom from a Rover 75 to fit his F.
  • Wipers & Wiper Motor
    • Dieter shows a repair for the wiper motor here.
    • Sometimes when the windscreen wipers are used on 04 TF's the drivers side window winds down on its own, the answer is to fit a 470µF capacitor, the instructions can be found  here, its a German site, but the link puts it thru Google's language translator, not quite perfect, but will probably be sufficient, and mildly entertaining.
    • Jerry Herbert from the SWMGF'rs has this great tip for your wiper motor (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the thread).
    • xmgf on had non working wiper motor, his simple 5 minute fix is here, water and electrics do not mix.
  • Alarm
    • Testing
      • The alarm system can be tested by following the procedure described below: 
        1. Ensure doors, bonnet and the boot lid are closed.
        2. Sit in the driver’s seat and close the door.
          NOTE: The next three actions must be carried out within 2 seconds.
        3. Depress the driver’s doorsill button.
        4. Switch the ignition on, off and on again.
        5. Raise the driver’s doorsill button.

        If the test mode has been entered correctly, the horns will give a short beep and the engine immobilisation buzzer will sound.
        Opening either door, the bonnet or the boot lid, or operating the driver’s doorsill button, will cause the alarm LED to illuminate for approximately one second. If the LED does not illuminate, there is a system fault.
        The volumetric sensor can also be tested while in test mode. To test the volumetric sensor, press the unlock button on the remote handset several times. The alarm LED will illuminate for approximately 1 second each time movement is detected in the vehicle.
        The test mode is cancelled by switching the ignition OFF.

    • David Aiketgate details the test procedure here on The-T-Bar.

    • Alarm is always going off
      • Check for the following :
        • Is there a mobile phone in the car?
        • Is it parked near a microwave oven?
        • Is it parked near automatic doors (including garage door openers)?
        • Is it parked near a mobile phone mast?
        • Is there a taxi rank close by?
        • Is there an ambulance or fire station close by?
        • Is there a hospital close by?
      • The micro switches in the door locks may be faulty.
    • Remote Handset
      • Handset not working
      • Battery replacement
        • Prise the handset apart from the key ring end, try not to damage the seal.
        • Remove the battery, take care not to touch the circuit board.
        • Press and hold each button in turn for at least 5 seconds
        • Fit a new battery (CR2032) with + side up.
        • Reassemble the handset.
        • Unlock the car using then key and operate the handset lock button four times to re-sync the handset.
      • Handset synchronisation
        • With the car unlocked, hold the handset close to the car and operate either button four times in quick succession, or until the door locks operate if the car is fitted with central locking.
      • Range
        • Stephan Gribney's Ultimate MG site has a section on how to increase the blipper range in his FAQ section.
  • SRS system
    • SRS dash light
      • If the SRS light stays on, follow this information on the original MGF FAQ web site.
      • Another possibility is the plug at the pretensioner end, CJJ posted this thread explaining, with pictures, how he fixed it.
  • Instrumentation
    • Clock
      • If your clock is loosing time, or stopped altogether, try the IT supports favourite reply - "have you tried turning it off and on again", simply remove the electrical connector from the back of the clock (pull out the centre air vent to access), or remove the fuse, leave it for 5 minutes, then reconnect.
    • Temperature gauge
      • Chris P, on the forum, had a problem were his temperature gauge reading would drop to zero every time he pressed the clutch pedal. His answer to the problem can be found in this thread, complete with photographs.
  • Miscellaneous
    • MGF MARK produced this thread on the forum showing how he made a USB car charger.


Page last modified on:08, December, 2013
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